Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G-the new classic manual winding chronograph Take a close look at Patek Philippe 5172G, a classic manual-winding chronograph.
Patek Philippe-manual winding-chronograph: three words that can immediately indicate your expectations. Classic, iconic, timeless, ideal, history. This watch is a hand-wound chronograph from Patek and is a classic watch for many collectors. Therefore, you can imagine that when replacing it, the brand simply cannot afford to make mistakes. Now that there is a new watch in the lineage, it is time to answer this question: What are our impressions of Patek Philippe’s new manual-winding chronograph 5172G?
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This classic high-end chronograph (without other complications) is one of the most iconic watches of Patek Philippe's exquisite craftsmanship, a model of the brand's famous elegance, restrained attitude and timeless appearance. This kind of watch is so familiar that you will feel that this kind of watch is always present in Patek Philippe's collection...but you will be wrong!
Surprisingly, the classic manual-winding chronograph was discontinued at Patek Philippe for nearly 40 years. In the 1940s and 1950s, they were manufactured in different shapes and had multiple references-references. 130, reference. No. 1579 No. 530 533. In most cases, it is the iconic reference 1463. 1463 will be the last of its kind in nearly 40 years. In fact, Patek Philippe stopped producing this hand-wound chronograph in the early 1960s, and we would not see the basic Patek Philippe chronograph again until 1998.
In 1998, Patek Phillipe replica re-launched the classic manual-winding chronograph (except for the chronograph, no other functions). This is a big event... There are two reasons: First, it marks the iconic Patek Philippe watch Secondly, the case of this re-introduction is very large-considering it has been more than 20 years ago, it can even be said to be too large. The number 5070 represents the rebirth of a manual-winding chronograph. This is a 42 mm watch equipped with a Lemania movement, entirely made by Patek Philippe, becoming the caliber CH-27-70. The first black dial of this watch made of gold (5070J produced from 1998 to 2002) has a lifespan until 2008/2009. Several versions were launched-5070G platinum/silver dials from 2002 to 2006, 5070R rose gold/silver dials from 2004 to 2008, and finally, 5070P platinum/blue dials were produced for several months from 2008 to 2009. referee. The 5070 was produced before being replaced by more stringent new models in 2010.
At the 2010 Basel International Watch and Jewellery Show, Patek Philippe launched the 5170, which is a less controversial and more academic watch. With its classic 39mm case, Calatrava-shaped lugs and bezel, neat dial-at least in later performances since the first generation, the dial is equipped with a pulsation meter scale -5170 The public is satisfied with the table, and the 5070 is more provocative. This watch is still one of the most elegant pieces recently created by the Geneva brand. Balance, excellent execution, slightly old...
There is also a big novelty in the case, that is, Patek Philippe's own hand-wound chronograph movement CH-29-535, which was used in men's watches for the first time. The three main performances of this watch: baton mark with pulse meter; Breguet digital with pulse meter; finally, Baogue number only has a second scale (no pulse meter). More detailed information about this watch is here. The reference has been in existence for the next nine years, until the 2019 Baselworld 2019 (Baselworld 2019) and the launch of reference 5172G.
The new classic chronograph, Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G
To describe 5172G as Patek Philippe's "important" watch is an understatement. This is a vital watch that must satisfy long-term collectors, true brand enthusiasts, who know what Patek Philippe’s simple manual winding chronograph represents... But Patek Philippe is a company, so it must also win new client. The high-end chronograph market is very crowded. JLC, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Blancpain, Chopard LUC and Lange all fight on this battlefield. With fierce competition, Patek Philippe must innovate, but at the same time Patek Philippe must also please conservative customers. For 5172G, this is a very high requirement.
So how does Patek Philippe solve this problem? Simple and effective formula: using the best features of 5170-restrained appearance, elegant appearance, hand-wound movement-eliminating the reasons that make it too conservative-Breguet numbers, overall shy case, maybe a little too small – Add a few retro details to make use of the success of the perpetual calendar reference. 5320G, shake it a bit, add the final fashion color and a little sense of leisure... What a pity!
Okay, I'm a bit simplified here, but in short, this is the formula of Patek Philippe 5172G. Is this delicious? For me, yes, it does. But we will see why later. Let us look at the watch in detail.
To understand 5172G, you must first review the perpetual calendar model. 5320G, just because I think this is the main source of inspiration for this chronograph. 5320G was launched in 2017 and received almost unanimous praise. It is a very good replica watch. Balanced and elegant, but also very fresh in terms of design, and has repeatedly cited brilliant past models. 5172G borrowed some elements of this watch and added a timing function to it.
Let's take a look at the situation. In terms of proportions, Patek Philippe slightly increased the diameter to 41 mm (39.4 mm for the 5170 model), which makes the watch slightly casual, sporty, and modern, but not large in size. The shape remains relatively slim, only 11 mm, and can be worn on most men's wrists. I can use a 39mm case, but obviously, the market needs a slightly larger watch.
The main evolution involves shape. This watch abandons the classic 5170 Calatrava-shaped case and uses 5320 exquisite lugs. Just like a perpetual calendar, Patek Philippe also uses an Art Deco style and a three-step table corner inspired by relatively rare reference materials. A simple three-hand watch from the 1940s), but the case and three-step claw lugs are very special. For me, these are the main attractions of this watch and give it incredible charm. The case has sharp facets, straight lines and angles, but never felt aggressive. Very elegant, slightly different...proficient!
Another vintage detail can be seen on the button with the guilloché motif, reminiscent of some antique references (for example, see reference number 1463 at the top of this article). Patek Philippe re-added the classic mushroom timing buttons, but decorated them with such discreet and beautiful details. Again, well done! The final "retro" style is the addition of a box-shaped sapphire crystal on the top. This crystal adds charm, produces good reflection/deformation, and makes the case slim.
On the dial side, the influence of 5320G is also obvious. The same Arabic numerals, the same "syringe" pointer (named "the thin-pointed baton" by Patek) and the same conservative attitude are slightly different. However, for this manual winding chronograph 5172G, Patek Philippe chose a matte blue varnished dial. In this way, a modern, casual dial is formed, clean, clear, a bit "dans l'air du temps", but all around it is comfortable. The pointer/hour hand manufacturer combination is also less stringent than the 5170, helping to distinguish this best copy watch from other chronographs of the brand.
In order to further create a retro/casual atmosphere, Patek Philippe reintegrated the tachymeter scale, where the smaller 5170 scale makes more sense. Two subdials-small seconds and 30-minute counter-are classically located under the dial. , Is a "skill" to prevent counterfeiting, but it may not be the most attractive detail on the watch. Unfortunately, Patek Philippe will not change this.
The final touch...a simple blue calfskin strap to match the dial, instead of the traditional, more refined glossy alligator strap. Again, this makes the watch lighter and adds a "cool" feel. The strap is equipped with a platinum folding buckle. I prefer to replace it with a simple fork buckle, which is more suitable for use in this casual/retro environment.
There are no accidents inside the movement, because the movement is the same as its predecessor movement CH 29-535-PS (small seconds). When launched on the 5170J, this traditional manual-winding dual composite chronograph movement was an important milestone for the brand. Indeed, this is the first men's watch in the series equipped with this new movement (it is also the basis for 5204, 5270 and 5370). This is a modern movement (with a patented tooth profile wheel hub, automatic adjustment of the hammer, modern 4Hz frequency, variable inertia balance and 65 hours of power reserve), and it has been carefully processed (manual chamfering and polishing Edge, Geneva stripes), round texture, golden hollow, perfectly decorated lever... It is confirmed by Patek Philippe. Regrettably, the design and layout of the movement, some collectors find it less attractive than the movement based on Lemania. However, even with a loss in visual beauty, it is modern and technical.
So... Has Patek Philippe managed to push the manual winding chronograph series in the right direction with this new reference 5172G? If you ask me, yes. Although there are some complaints, mainly about the layout of the dial and the size of the case (at least in my opinion, 39mm or 40mm is perfect), the watch manages to pay tribute to the ancient series without spreading out in weird directions . At the same time, it brings fresh elements, a little casual and balanced wine.
Considering the role of this watch-to please long-term collectors while also attracting new customers-I think Patek Philippe copy has done a good job of finding a balance between originality, market demand and conservatism.
Like the manual winding chronograph, the Patek Philippe 5217G-001 chronograph is not a limited edition, but it will not be mass produced.
Technical Specifications-Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G
Case: diameter 41 mm x height 11.45 mm-18k white gold case, polished-sapphire crystal top (box type) and back cover-water resistance up to 30m
Dial: blue lacquer dial-platinum surface with luminous coating numbers-tachymeter scale-platinum fine-pointed baton (similar to a syringe) pointer, with luminous coating
Movement: CH 29-535-PS movement-manual winding mechanical movement-29.6mm x 5.35mm-65 hours of power reserve when the chronograph is released-28,800 vibrations per hour-33 jewels-hours, minutes, Small seconds and chronograph with instant minutes – 270 parts – Patek Philippe Seal
Strap: Blue calfskin strap-18k white gold folding clasp
Reference: 5172G-001
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