Monday, January 28, 2019

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DeWitt Academia Skeleton Bi-Retrograde Watch Review

Geneva-based watchmaker DeWitt is often known for its ambitious application of “fun” mechanical principles in the small range of watch movements. I have seen them do this many times over the years, as well as the DeWitt Academia Skeleton reference AC.SKE.001 watch that I am reviewing today. DeWitt is not always so famous because it is easy to interpret or convey the impressive qualities that manufacturers generally or their particular products have - so you need to listen carefully and pay special attention to understanding these products correctly. The founder, Jerome DeWitt, seems to think that the “right” fan will not only discover the quality of his company, but also appreciate his brand of handicrafts in the form of their products. Let's take a look at the interesting talent and personality of this new DeWitt Academia Skeleton watch for mechanical enthusiasts.


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Although this watch may not be the first openwork watch produced by DeWitt, it is the first “traditional” openwork watch I can think of. This means a fully open dial with only the hint of a traditional face on the outer flange ring, where you can find the hour and minute markers. The rest of the dial is mostly a view of the movement and its various workpieces. In fact, this watch looks so different from DeWitt, unless you see the academic style case from the side, it is easy to confuse Academia Skeleton with products from another brand. A look at the watch reminds me of Arnold and his son.DEWITT ACADEMIA HOUR PLANET TITANIUM BLACK Replica watch

Although there are always obvious technical advantages, many DeWitt watches often have one or more small legibility issues. In the case of Academia Skeleton, the hand is easily integrated into the dial and is a bit short. The hand was completely polished and it was a little hollow. This inevitably leads to inconsistencies with the designers, who “want to do this.” Does this mean that they don’t want their hands to be emphasized? I think it is. I totally disagree that luxury watches don't need to focus on the design concept of clearly telling time, because people buy these products for artistic purposes. I mentioned this rebuttal in this argument because it is a typical response I got when I discussed the issues related to legibility in private with many brands. They objected to me again and again, and clear evidence shows that clear watches are the most widely sold watches on the market. Again, because DeWitt's production is very low, I think they will not be too troublesome to sell 28 of these Academia Skeleton watches.



You can easily read the dial by moving the watch slightly to the wrist so that the hand uses the light correctly. The dial also has two additional pieces of information, including an unconventional power reserve indicator and a second non-traditional indicator. DeWitt himself did not even list the “power reserve instructions” as one of the functions of Academia Skeleton, although it was an important part of the value proposition for me. The power reserve indicator is actually part of a planetary gear assembly adjacent to the hollow main barrel (the movement has two barrels with a power reserve indicator on top of one of the engines). Looking closely at the three planet gears, you will first see a small indicator arrow and a digital scale indicating the remaining power reserve time. swiss Urwerk replica Watches

DeWitt's internal hand-wound calibre DW1105S powers the Academia Skeleton, which runs 100 hours of power reserve at 3 Hz (21,600 bph). The "S" portion of the movement name may be designated as the skeleton version. This process begins with the company's production of bridges and other elements, as thin as possible and without metal. Next it involves a decorator carefully hand-polished and finished the part, which is the part of the equation's "high-end watch". From a design point of view, I prefer the DW1105S movement. There are some very nice parts, my favorite is a main barrel, not only with some lovely hand-decorated, but also a beautiful shape. Looking at the front or rear of the watch, you can see the two mainsprings in the barrel and pay more attention to the power in the movement depending on how close the spring is. Then there is a power reserve indicator that can be used.



I haven't talked about my favorite movement function, which is what DeWitt calls the "double reverse seconds" indicator. I have some doubts about this term because it used to be used to refer to two different retrograde counters instead of the DeWitt-designed DW1105S calibre (composed of 263 parts). I am not completely sure about the complex features I will describe, but "retrograde" will be part of the term. A better description of the two-way second indicator would be "a two-way retrograde hand with a two-position hand." Let me explain what this means.Luxury cheap replica watches

The traditional retrograde hand does not move in a constant circumferential direction, but moves along the arc and jumps back to the original position at the end of the arc. Such retrogrades usually "jump" back to their starting position. There are many retrograde seconds on the watch, using partial circles and full circles to indicate the number of seconds. One of my favorite examples of the past is a series made by Milus that uses three retrograde pointers on the dial - each counts 20 seconds and operates one at a time. DeWitt's more interesting approach to the traditional retrograde second hand is to start with a hand that doesn't jump. Conversely, once the second hand reaches the end of the arc, it simply changes direction and moves back to the starting position. Therefore, a single 30 second scale can indicate a full 60 seconds because the hand moves twice per minute. Very cool and very smart.

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DeWitt did not end there and decided to make the two-way retrograde action more "accurate." How did they do it? The answer is to determine if it represents the first or second 30 seconds per minute by changing the length of the second hand. The scale on the dial has two levels: one is 0-30 seconds and the second is 31-60 seconds. Interestingly, the movement mechanically changed the length of the second hand by a small amount (possibly one millimeter). I really like the way this system works and the ideas that come into it. It provides marginal utility, but as a mechanical sports enthusiast, I really appreciate such things. Unfortunately, as I said, DeWitt may be great at imagining, designing, and building such concepts - but communicating them is not currently their strength. I can easily see the owner of this Academia Skeleton watch wearing it for months or even years, and actually did not realize that the second hand changed its length every 30 seconds.wholesale watches replica

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At this time, DeWitt only offers the Academia Skeleton in a 18K rose gold case. The case is very wear-resistant, 42.5 mm wide and 10 mm thick. There are typical contrasting crepe patterns on both sides of the case (I believe the black areas are made of vulcanized rubber), which we saw in many DeWitt products. The lugs are semi-hollowed, and the overall case is both attractive and comfortable to me. The case features a comfortable, high-quality crocodile leather strap with a water-resistant depth of 30 meters and sapphire crystals on both sides. DeWitt uses the curved strap end to properly match the contour of the case.

Although Academia Skeleton didn't initially look like my eyes like DeWitt, the more I wear, the more DeWitt's role. Design quirks are certainly part of it, but there is also a feeling that it is made by people who really like watchmakers - Earl of DeWitt himself is an important part of it. DeWitt and his wife are the main characters behind the brand, and you can feel their influence in most products. Visually pleasing, Academia Skeleton's real interest lies in the small technical details and aesthetic design features you can't find in other watches. So look carefully and enjoy.best Hublot King Power watches replica

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