The last scene of Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2T
Ferdinand Berthoud bids farewell to the impressive movement in the round case of the Chronomètre FB.
Ferdinand Berthoud delivers an impressive FB-T.FC swan song. Debuted on FB1 in 2015. Inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud's historic marine chronometers, this fascinating tourbillon movement with fusée-and-chain transmission won the top prize at the 2016 Geneva Prix de la Horlogerie and established the brand's foothold in haute horlogerie. Consisting of 38 customizable parts, the final act of the Chronmère FB respects the original dial configuration of the FB 1 and is driven by the same movement, exchanging its octagonal case for a round case.
Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele realized one of his dreams when he acquired the name Ferdinand Berthoud in 2006. A loyal supporter of Berthoud's work, Schaefer also purchased the montre Marine no. 11.6 (1777), which is now on display at the Chopard LUCEUM. Unlike some contemporary brands that bolster unnamed products with historic names, Scheufele is determined to continue the legacy of Berthoud's past, honoring original spirit, ingenuity and craftsmanship a full 208 years after his death, with a contemporary twist. Scheufele is a niche brand aimed at collectors, and the first watch launched in 2015 for the fledgling brand was the Chronomètre FB 1 with a chronometer-certified in-house movement featuring a tourbillon and a fusée-and-chain transmission based on an old-fashioned pillar structure. The FB-T.FC caliber provided the base movement for the other models, reinforcing the brand image.
The Chronomètre FB1 (which you can see in the photo above) was designed as a tribute to the mechanical prowess and precision of Berthoud marine chronometers. Inspired by the structure of Ferdinand Berthoud's marine chronometers, in particular their gimbal suspension allowing the ship's chronometers to remain in a horizontal position, the large 44mm case has an octagonal shape. Like the waterproof portholes on a boat, four sapphire windows in the case let in light and provide a fascinating view of the movement. Since the movement is the same, we will use the latest and latest model FB-T.FC to introduce its specifications.
The movement ends in a round case similar to the Chronomètre FB 2RE. The new hull remains 44mm in diameter, 14.30mm thick and is available in 18k rose or white gold. Collectors of the final 38 pieces can choose between case materials, dial colors and finishes, and leather straps. Obviously, the round shell cannot be changed.
While some may nostalgic for the angular personality of the early FB 1, others may celebrate the rounded version as a more wearable option - I certainly stick to the latter. As they say, you win some, you lose some, and the round case only has one porthole mounted on the left case side instead of the four on the octagonal case. Don't worry, though, as there are now more sapphire viewing windows on the back of the watch, but we'll get to that later. With the new case shape, the lugs are now apparently riveted to the round case middle and stand out more than the octagonal case that engulfs them.
Another feature you may have noticed is the use of a flat crown guard (also bolted on) around the large (9mm) 18K gold crown, which has a new black ceramic badge in its centre. Seventy turns of the crown fully arm the mainspring, but in order to prevent overwinding of the movement, the crown is equipped with an uncoupling safety device. If the tension exceeds the permitted parameters, the dynamometer spring concealed in the crown disengages, preventing the crown from driving the winding pinion.
regulator dial
As you can see, the dial has the same layout as the FB 1 and echoes historic marine chronometers, with its noon subdial positioned off-centre, the extra-long central seconds sweeping majestically (without stuttering) across the dial, and landing on the peripheral rail, with the numerals at 5-second intervals separated by a line. The recessed power-reserve indicator remains at 9 o'clock, and the slim oval aperture on the dial runs from the base of the hours and minutes sub-dials to the marker at 6 o'clock, revealing the 1-minute slow-speed tourbillon above which houses the single coaxial fourth wheel that drives the central seconds hand; this means that the seconds hand is driven directly by the tourbillon, rather than by a gear train.
Obviously, depending on the color of the selected dial, the decoration on the dial will also be different. While customizable, the three styles are white gold with a blue CVD dial and white gold hands, rose gold with a black rhodium dial and rose gold hands, and rose gold with a gray ruthenium dial and blue CVD hands. All versions have silver-toned subdials and seconds track with black lacquered inscriptions.
mechanical vision
The reverse side of the watch also surprises collectors, now with three sapphire bridges replacing the German silver bridges on the Chronomètre FB 1.4-3. The addition of hand-chamfered transparent bridges greatly increases viewing pleasure and makes up for the lack of portholes on the side of the case (there is only one). Composed of 1,134 components, the hand-wound, chronometer-certified pillar movement is symmetrically constructed, revealing a large fusée-and-chain transmission and tourbillon. The movement is equipped with a low-frequency reverse tourbillon, equipped with a direct jumping second device, and is adjusted by a suspension sesame chain transmission system for constant force, which can be called a perfect display of watchmaking technology.
The final act of the Chronomètre FB 2T delivers impressive horological content and does justice to the heavyweight behind the brand. Its round case shape makes it even more wearable, while customization options mean 38 lucky collectors will have a unique time capsule on their wrist. While the watch references certain aspects of Ferdinand Berthoud marine clocks, the exposed tourbillon and fourth wheel on the dial and the clear view of the mechanism on the case back will satisfy contemporary collectors.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – FERDINAND BERTHOUD CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2T
Case: Diameter 44 mm x Thickness 14.30 m - Round case in 18k white gold or 18k rose gold with brushed decorative finish - 1 transverse sapphire porthole - Sapphire crystal front and back - Water resistant to 30 m - 9 mm gold dynamometer crown with black ceramic badge
Dial: Vertical satin-brushed brass base plate with blue CVD treatment, black rhodium treatment or gray ruthenium treatment - Silver hours and minutes sub-dials with faceted and skeletonized gold dagger-shaped hands - Large central seconds hand - Power reserve indicator engraved on plate
Movement: Caliber FB-T.FC-2 - Manufacture - COSC certified - Manual winding, fusée and chain drive (constant force) - 35.50mm x 7.96mm - 1,134 components (out of 792 components) - 45 jewels - 3 sapphire crystal bridges - One minute tourbillon, direct drive seconds, 21,600 vibrations per hour, variable inertia balance - 53 Hours of power reserve - hand-finished - off-centre hours/minutes, central seconds, power reserve indicator
Strap: Hand-stitched leather strap - adjustable gold double-edged folding clasp or pin buckle
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