Zenith Introduces Calibre 135 Observatory
Phillips style and a little Voutilainen shine. Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire
Phillips has designed his own limited edition of El Primero and has teamed up with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches, each powered by cal. 135-O.
This movement is a specially adjusted version of the mid-20th century Zenith flagship chronometer watch movement, designed for participation in the chronometer competition of the observatory. Therefore, until now, these movements have never been boxed and sold. The movement is housed in a platinum case lightly decorated by Voutilainen, which also offers guilloche-finish dials through its dial-making subsidiary Comblemine.
The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a great looking watch. Obviously modeled on a vintage model, it didn't make too many changes to the original design, but injected some elegant details to make it more refined, such as the guilloche crest ring. These discreet embellishments are enough to make it a higher-end wholesale replica watches than the retro original, which is more of a functional chronometer.
More broadly, it is a tripartite collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to varying degrees.
Observatoire was a smart collaboration for Phillips, as it complements its strengths in selling vintage and contemporary watches at high-end prices. It is also the perfect base for auctioneers to tap into the keen eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs and Alexandre Ghotbi. Details such as the vintage aesthetic and the movement number on the dial underscore their well-polished taste.
The observatory also makes sense for Zenith, as it elevates the brand into a territory it doesn't traditionally belong to, thanks to the pricing power that the Voutilainen and Phillips brands offer.
For Kari Voutilainen, it's less clear what his brand gets out of it, especially since he's been involved in various projects, the biggest of which is the revival of Urban Jurgensen.
In fact, Mr. Voutilainen started his brand with a similar watch - his own Observatoire powered by a restored Peseux 260, completed to a higher level - which means he can do more with cal. thing. 135. With the fine but minimal finish of the movement, the Voutilainen content in the Zenith Observatoire feels inadequate, especially given the price.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci 77350CE.OO.1266CE.02
As for the price -- nearly $140,000 -- it's a stretch for Zenith, but the Voutilainen brand makes it palatable. However, given the small quantities made, the price is logical.
Chronostar
cals produced from 1949 to 1962. The 135 is Zenith's high-precision workhorse movement, with more than 11,000 movements completed in its more than ten years of operation. Most of them are destined to be mounted on watches and then sold commercially; these are standard calories. 135.
But the second version of cal . The 135-O was designed purely as a competition timekeeper for observatory tests organized by the Neuchâtel and Geneva observatories in Switzerland, Kew Teddington outside London and the observatories in Besançon, France. According to Zenith, cal. The 135-O has won the most chronograph awards of any movement in history, with more than 230 in total.
This edition of 10 watches all contain movements from 1950 to 1954, which the cal. 135-O wins every year. The winning movements were regulated by the star regulators of the time, Charles Fleck or René Gygax. During this period, each of the ten movements selected for the limited edition won first prizes (although one had to be entered a second time to do so).high quality replica watches
Atelier Voutilainen was responsible for the restoration and decoration of the ten cards. 135 operating systems. The work done by Mr. Voutilainen includes chamfering of bridges, chamfering and polishing of screw heads, and chamfering of base plates.
But according to Zenith, much of the original movement aesthetics have been preserved in order to "take care [to preserve] the original adjustment and fine-tuning of the movement by Fleck and Gygax".
cals per recovery. The 135-O movement is housed in a 38mm platinum case, a metal not used for vintage cals. 135 in gold or steel.
The dial base is 925 sterling silver with barley grain guilloche on the hour markers. The hour markers are rhodium-plated German silver, while the hands are solid gold.JACOB & CO ASTRONOMIA DRAGON
Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire
Ref. 40.1350.135/21.C1000
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 10.35 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Carl. 135-O
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency: 18,000 times/hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Calfskin with white gold pin buckle
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