Tuesday, May 16, 2023

De Bethune Dream Watch 5

 

A brief history of De Bethune

We spend a lot of time here talking about independent replica watches for sale. Whether it's interviewing the artisans behind them, examining watches' intricate details, or discovering some lesser-known names in the field, we devote a great deal of words and time to this niche in the watch world. In some ways, De Bethune occupies an even smaller place in the compact space of independent watchmaking.

This year, however, marks the 20th anniversary of the label, often regarded as one of the first of a wave of independent labels that emerged around the turn of the century. Helmed by master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, De Bethune is primarily known for its opulent aesthetic, which often departs from the classical watchmaking design language we all take for granted. Yet little is discussed about the award-winning manufacturer's deep library of technical innovations in balanced structures and its solid reputation for materials science innovation. Little is known about the people behind these advances.

Using some of the brand's major launches as its spine, we're here to tell the story of the manufacturer celebrating its 20th anniversary in operation. We explore the surprisingly classical origins of this avant-garde watchmaker, as well as the reasons for its independent founding. Through its technological milestones, we hope to understand the minds and craftsmanship of the people behind the brand.replica best watches

This is by no means an exhaustive list – it would be the subject of an entire volume of work, given how frantically de Bethune has exercised its independence to pursue whatever horological direction it sees fit. This article is intended to give those new to De Bethune a taste of its philosophy and to give seasoned enthusiasts a deeper understanding of its specific brand of watchmaking.

Origin: Desire for complete independence
De Bethune's hometown of L'Auberson is located in the Jura Mountains, near the French border. The brand was born in 2002 from the collaboration between David Zanetta, an Italian art and vintage watch collector and dealer, and Denis Flageollet, a fourth-generation watchmaker from France.

Flageollet and Zanetta first met while working at Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a manufacturer founded in the late 1980s by François-Paul Journe and Pascal Courteault. They would build a dream team of complication makers early in their careers, including Flageollet and Vianney Halter. This impressive group of watchmakers worked together to create complex high-end movements for brands such as Breguet, Cartier, Franck Muller and Bucherer (which eventually acquired and absorbed THA). In fact, their only rival in this fine watchmaking arena is the Audemars Piguet-backed studio at the helm of Dominique Reynolds and Giulio Papi.replica men watches

Perhaps it was a desire to start afresh in the new millennium, or that both Journe and Halter had left THA to start their namesake label, but Zanetta decided to strike out on her own, too. At Flageollet, he felt a growing impatience to design movements for others anonymously—a talented watchmaker whose desire for technical innovation was limited by another brand's specifications. "It's absolutely imperative to stop working with big brands that don't work honestly with their suppliers," Flageollet told us. So Zanetta didn't have much trouble convincing him to join the new venture they decided to call De Bethune.

From day one, April 22, 2002, they have shown their intent to manufacture. Instead of engraving their names on the dial like many of their contemporaries at the time, the duo looked to the past for inspiration. They are named after 18th century French nobleman and revolutionary escapement designer Chevalier De Bethune. That’s fitting – it speaks to the duo’s emphasis on the history of classic watchmaking, and the kind of creativity that drives the brand’s namesake. Zanetta and Flageollet were convinced from the start that what they were trying to do couldn't be just another watch brand; it had to be a manufacturer in the truest sense of the word.

"The idea at the beginning of the project was to start from a blank page. What I really wanted was to enjoy total independence. The idea behind the project David Zanetta and I initiated was to create replica watches cheap that would allow people to discover the great history of watchmaking." Dennis flagole

classical music before rock 'n' roll
Today's De Bethune is known for its unique futuristic bold designs and constant experimentation with materials and timekeeping science, so those familiar with the brand are often disbelieved by its rather traditional beginnings.

The DB1 Chronograph, De Bethune's first product, is a restrained and traditional beauty. The only unusual decision is the oval or bullet-shaped lugs, which will become part of the brand’s aesthetic DNA. The caseback of the DB1, like many of De Bethune's early creations, is closed, so you cannot see the movement that powers these watches. They were not developed strictly in-house; for the DB1 (and later in the DB8), Flageollet took the closest thing he could get to - a hand-wound chronograph movement he developed jointly with Journe at THA to recreate Launch of the elegant Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir .

Referring to this period in de Bethune's history, Flageollet often uses the metaphor of mastering the rules of classical music before being able to change and adapt rock music to his will. However, working on the DB1 was not his first exposure to classical watchmaking. At this point, it may be worth delving into the education he received, as it is central to his story as a watchmaker today.watch replica swiss

Flageollet crossed the border from his native France to Switzerland as a young man to be educated in watchmaking and micromechanical engineering. He would work under the watchmaker's bench for several years, repairing antique timepieces at the Rockler Clock Museum. Here, he experienced first-hand the remarkable innovations of pioneers such as Frères Rochat and Pierre Jaquet-Droz.

Afterwards, he worked for a while at Michel Parmigiani's restoration shop, where working became a rite of passage for the promising watchmakers of his generation. There, chief watchmaker Charles Meylan and a legend with extensive watchmaking knowledge (who retired after serving as technical director at Favre-Leuba and Audemars Piguet) took Flageollet under his wing. Under Meylan's tutelage, he learned to repair some of the rarest and most unusual antique timepieces - acquiring, among other skills, the ability to machine watch parts.

Later, during his time with THA, Zanetta found an ally in Flageollet with the same respect for classical watchmaking, evident in De Bethune's early catalogues. Whether it’s the time-only DB2, the DB3 Dual Time or the DB8 (sometimes colloquially known as the “football timer” for its single-register 45-minute chronograph), all reflect their shared vision of modern watchmaking, based on past information, it should look like.best replica watches

No comments:

Post a Comment