The new MB&F LM Perpetual has a salmon-coloured dial in a steel case - extremely rare for the brand, but not a limited edition!
MB&F LM Perpetual Steel is their second creation to feature a salmon dial
MB&F's cases are rarely made of stainless steel, further enhancing the rarity
When you look at high-end brands like Patek Philippe, usually these manufacturers choose to produce more precious metal timepieces instead of more affordable stainless steel timepieces. Ironically, limited quantities often mean that these rare stainless steel items are worth more than precious metal items on the secondary market. The MB&F LM Perpetual was immediately recognized as an outstanding design upon its debut in 2015, becoming a certified seller of the brand and winning the GPHG Award for Best Calendar Watch in 2016. However, six of the watch's first seven iterations since its inception have been cased in precious metals, with the only exception being the titanium limited-edition reference. And, of the seven iterations that preceded this one, six were limited editions, totaling 150 pieces—the only exception being the white gold configuration and the dark gray dial, which is produced in limited numbers each year. Therefore, today we have a large-scale development of the LM Perpetual series. Not only do we have a new reference in a non-limited edition, we also have a new MB&F LM Perpetual Steel, which uses metal for the first time in the range and is a rare steel in MB&F's catalog as a whole. The icing on the cake: this is the second watch from MB&F to feature a salmon dial (the previous salmon dial model was a limited edition).
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The high-end watchmaking of a stainless steel case with a salmon-toned dial is a dangerous combination that immediately piqued the interest of the watch collecting community. So, considering both the steel case and salmon-coloured dial were firsts for the collection – and collectors love firsts – you would expect a lot of demand for the LM Perpetual Steel down. The steel case has the same dimensions as its predecessor, measuring 44mm in diameter and 17.5mm thick. These dimensions are certainly large on paper, but my previous experience with "metal" MB&F watches has shown that their watches are more wearable than the specs suggest. The domed crystal, grand balance wheel and bridge center stage, and a dial so deep put the complexity of the movement on full display, my book immediately forgave the thickness of the piece. Above the orange red dial you have white enamel sub-dials and circular chrono counters displaying the hours and minutes at 12', the calendar date at 9', the calendar day at 3' and the calendar month at 6'. To the left of the calendar month display is a retrograde leap year indicator, and to the right is a power reserve indicator. There's a lot to unpack, but the balance of the dial is wonderfully harmonious, as each indication revolves around the large central balance wheel.
The complexity of the LM Perpetual Engine movement cannot be underestimated, and its 581-part build understandably limits annual production capacity. This beautifully decorated and powerful engine is the brainchild of Stephen McDonell, a respected watchmaker and close friend of the brand. The movement showcases first-class decoration, with stunning stripes across the bridges and exquisitely hand-chamfered edges, including the inner corners. Technically, the design of the movement is also very thoughtful. For example, the LM Perpetual Engine uses a "mechanical processor" to ensure that the date never jumps wrong,
Of course, such excellence in watchmaking and design is understandably expensive. But this LM Perpetual steel model is only bigger than another white gold limited-production model. So, unfortunately, its debut in stainless steel doesn't particularly make the cost of this watch more accessible. Having said that, it's good news that it's not a limited edition from a production standpoint.
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Brand MB&F
Model LM Constant Steel
Case Dimensions 44mm (D) x 17.5mm (L)
Case Material Stainless Steel
Water resistance 30 meters
Dial Salmon dial
Crystal Sapphire crystal and case back
Bracelet/Strap Black, gray, brown or blue hand-stitched alligator leather strap with steel folding clasp
Mobile LM Perpetual Engine developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell
Power reserve 72 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, day of the week, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicator
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